The Golfdom Files: Grau’s answers to turf questions

Fred V. Grau, Ph.D., is probably best known as the United State’s first Extension Service turf agronomist at Penn State University, or as a former director of the USGA Green Section or one of the founders of the Musser International Turfgrass Foundation.

Believe it or not, Grau at one time was a sort of “Dear Abby” for Golfdom answering questions from superintendents in a column. In our January 1965 edition, he answered questions mailed to his home address in College Park, Md. To read the full article, click here.

Thirty-eight years of intimate association with every phase of the turf industry makes it clear that all of us need to develop to the utmost an understanding of principles, which underlie thought and action. Time and time again we have heard it explained that, in turf, there is no cut-and-dried, easy formula for success. Success comes only when principles are understood and intelligently applied to the problem at hand…

Many older men in the profession may not have had the chance to study in this field although the younger men have that chance. It is to the credit of older superintendents that they have done such an outstanding job of learning by doing and by asking questions. It behooves us to study carefully their successes and their failures so that those who have the advantage of technical training may better understand the underlying principles…

Seeks dense turf

Q: We seeded our new greens to a 50-5-0 mixture of Seaside and Colonial bent at 2 pounds per 1,000 sq. ft. We can’t seem to get the turf to fill in and make a dense putting surface. What do you suggest? (Ohio)

You have furnished no information on fertilization. It is possible that the grass is hungry for nitrogen. Another factor is your choice of grasses. Colonial bent is a bunch type grass that does not spread to form dense turf as creeping bents do. My suggestion is to treat these greens with the hydroseeding technique is to use one-half pound of Penncross seed to 1,000 sq. ft. and the suggested fertilizer. Repeat two weeks later. After that, maintain a high N level to encourage the grass to thicken. Be very sparing with topdressmg for a couple of months. Make sure that the pH range is not limiting.

10-6-4 or Straight?

Q: We had soil samples taken from our fairway for tests at three different laboratories. Results were in agreement showing pH 5.6, very high phosphorus and very high potash. We will apply limestone to correct the acidity. One source of information recommends a 10-6-4 fertilizer; another recommends straight nitrogen. We have mostly Bermudagrass. What should we do? (Missouri)

The limestone is essential. With ample supplies of P and K in your fairway soils it is hard to see why you should apply anything but straight nitrogen. Eventually the levels of P and K will drop where a complete fertilizer can be justified. Until that time you will get the greatest value for your fertilize dollar in straight nitrogen.

Bentgrass seeding

Q: We have used suggested procedure for hydroseeding bentgrass seed with very good results. We seem to notice that we get quicker germination with hydroseeding than with ordinary dry broadcast seeding. Can you suggest a reason for this? (Indiana)

Research has shown that many seeds have substances in their seed coats that inhibit or delay germination. Soaking the seed overnight or washing the seed seems to remove the inhibitor. In the hydroseeder tank (spray tank) the seed is a churned and agitated water-and-fertilizer slurry. This effectively removes the inhibiting substances so that, when the seed-fertilizer mix is sprayed on the prepared seed bed, it is ready to germinate at once. Records show that bent seeds often show sprouts in three days.